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KMID : 0604520100360020157
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Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
2010 Volume.36 No. 2 p.157 ~ p.165
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Antioxidant Activity of Rhododendron brachycarpum D. Don Extracts and Its Skin Hydration Effect Measure
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Park Jung-Ok
Lim Gyu-Nam
Park Soo-Nam
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Abstract
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In this study, the antioxidative effects, inhibitory effects on tyrosinase and elastase of Rhododendron brachycarpum D. Don extracts were investigated. And the moisturizing effect of cream containing R. brachycarpum D. Don extract were investigated by clinical trial. The ethyl acetate fraction of R. brachycarpum D. Don extract (1.83 ) showed the most prominent the free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, DPPH) scavenging activity (). Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities () of R. brachycarpum D. Don extracts on ROS generated in -EDTA/ system were investigated using the luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay. The 50 % extract fraction (0.064 ) showed the most prominent ROS scavenging activity. The protective effects of extract/fractions of R. brachycarpum D. Don on the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were investigated. The R. brachycarpum D. Don extracts suppressed photohemolysis in a concentration dependent manner (1 ~ 10 ). The inhibitory effects () of R. brachycarpum D. Don extracts on tyrosinase were determined with ethyl acetate fraction of R. brachycarpum D. Don extract (70.5 ) and aglycone fraction of extract (122.40 ). The inhibitory effects () on elastase were determined with ethyl acetate of R. brachycarpum D. Don extract (43.50 ) and aglycone fraction of extract (20.73 ). The cream containing the ethyl acetate fraction of R. brachycarpum D. Don extracts was formulated for skin hydration effect and transepidermal water loss (TEWL). The cream containing R. brachycarpum D. Don extract was applied to the right lower arm. After 180 min, the water contents in skin were increased by 1 ~ 4 % than the placebo cream. And TEWL of parts was decreased as 7.7 (experimental cream) and 8.9 (placebo cream) respectively. These results indicate that extract/fractions of R. brachycarpum D. Don can function as antioxidants in biological systems, particularly skin exposed to UV radiation by scavenging and other ROS, and protect cellular membranes against ROS. And inhibitory activity on tyrosinase of the aglycone fraction could be applicable to new functional cosmetics for whitening and anti-wrinkle products. Also the increase of skin hydration of the cream containing extract could be applicable to new functional cosmetics for antiaging.
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KEYWORD
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Rhododendron brachycarpum, antioxidative activity, whitening, skin hydration, cosmetics
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